Zen and the Art of Boat Maintenance
- Aodhán Ridenour
- 5 days ago
- 4 min read
Jess DiCarlo, our current boat repair person at TRRA, learned the art of boat maintenance the hands-on way. From filling thin spots on a hull, to repairing massive gashes–or even replacing missing bows–she’s done it.
Her interest in the craft began around 2017, when on her first outing as a bowperson in a quad, “disaster struck.” She remembers feeling so good and confident with herself, calling out strokes, peeking over her shoulder, enjoying the quad’s smooth run on a gorgeous day when–ksshhhrrrkk!!
The boat ran aground near the tip of the Island. Shock! Gasp! Further inspection revealed a 7-10 foot gash along the boat’s belly and side of the bow. Tears ensued. It was her fault, she figured, and she felt helpless to the situation.
Luckily, insurance covered the damages. However, Jess was finished bowing for a while.
Several years later, during COVID, Jess sought new forms of employment after leaving the corporate writing world, where she wrote instruction manuals for IBM.
A boat repair person named Bob Gilston from Saratoga Springs, NY took her under his wing and she began an apprenticeship. “You have to blend the old stuff with the new stuff,” she says, commenting on the underbelly of the Teddy Hall, a TRRA double she recently patched. “It was overwhelming five years ago.”
These days, it’s still overwhelming sometimes. She drives to the boathouse, carrying all of her tools and materials in her Subaru Crosstrek, and stays on site for several days. “Most people haven’t seen what goes into making a boat. You don’t know what’s under [the paint].”
Every racing shell is made up of several fiber-reinforced plastic layers (either fiberglass, carbon fiber, or kevlar) and hardened via chemical reaction with epoxy. Various weave patterns are layered into a mold, and can be vacuum-bagged and can be baked in giant ovens, called autoclaves.
Watch this video from Empacher for visuals of boat making process from the 90s.
When she started out, confidence was a big issue for Jess, since boats seem so fragile and complex. Until she “kinda just dove in.”
Now, the hardest part is knowing when to stop. For example, she sanded the Teddy Hall down to 800 grit sandpaper. “[It’s] like a piece of writing,” she says. “It’s really hard to let it go.”
To the untrained eye, Michelangelo’s “David” might seem perfect. But only the artist knows how many mistakes he made.
Legendary coach and author, Mike Davenport, wrote a book called The Nuts & Bolts Guide to Rigging, which has become a classic in the rowing world. Now in its 10th edition, the book includes step-by-step instructions and illustrations “to help simplify this sometimes mystifying part of rowing.”
Below is a “running list” of boat maintenance tips that any rower can (and should) learn. Check back from time to time to gain new tips. If you have any tips to add to the list, send an email to aodhanridenour@threeriversrowing.org
Don’t lose wrenches or nuts and bolts
Put nuts and washers in the shoes, not on the tracks. People may stop by your seat while rigging and “act like they are doing something” by rolling the seat back and forth, absentmindedly knocking your precious nuts into the grass. Invest in a good-looking tool box and learn what goes in it (did somebody say "label makers?”)
Wipe down your boat and oars
The rivers are kind of gross. Who knows what is in there these days (the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy next door does). Don’t let river crud get built up on the expensive two-part paint job (it’s often the same paint they use on cars). Lots of boats are white or bright colors, making the crud lines especially visible. A simple wipe-down with a towel goes a long way. This also includes oars if you want to keep your paint job nice.
Rack correctly
Support the hull, not the rigging. Use pads, noodles, or towels. Do your best to have a spotter or help. It’s usually easier and less risky to rack with a partner. These are also opportune times to practice Zen, balance, and boat awareness.
Check nuts and hardware before every row
How many rows have been cut short because somebody lost a nut? Even worse, how many riggers have fallen apart during a race? Whenever possible, run a wrench along each removable part, including the tops of each oar lock pin.
Listen to your coxswain, bowperson, and passerby
In theory, they are paying the most attention as you enter or leave the water. That said, it doesn’t hurt to pay attention, yourself. Sometimes there are blindspots that the bowperson misses, so keep an eye out. But in the end it is your coxswain's (or bowperson’s) voice which represents the most immediate source of direction. Still, if an official or passerby shouts “STOP ROWING!” from a boat or sidewalk because you’re going to hit a tree or dock, that person becomes the new immediate voice of reason.
Learn from more experienced rowers
If somebody in your boathouse clearly knows what they are doing, ask them if you can watch them take care of their boat. Or ask them for direct advice about a specific aspect of maintenance. Chances are they’ll be happy to help you. Just make sure they are not in a rush to get on or off the water.
Establish a clean work space
Avoid clutter build-up around the boathouse and trailer. There are so many people coming in and out of bays all day, many you may not even know. It’s not only a sign of respect to other rowers to clean up after your boat, but also much easier to work with and mitigates the chance of losing things.
Keep tracks clean and lightly lubricated
A dingy track makes for a scrape-y row, and they get gritty quickly. The tracks are your mechanism for feeling smooth (and staying quiet, peaceful, Zenful, even) on the water. Wipe tracks with a damp cloth after practice then apply a light silicone spray. Grime left in slides = wear on bearings and more “jumpy” strokes.